Amsterdam celebrates the rich cuisine of the Netherlands and embraces its Dutch character.
My culinary journey began at the age of four when my family moved from the American Midwest to the northern Dutch university town of Groningen. Every flavor was a revelation: from salty-sweet licorice to creamy Frisian milk, nutty Gouda cheese to ginger-infused speculaas cookies. However, the memory of silvery gleaming herrings from street vendors remained my only culinary aversion.
As an adult, I found Amsterdam lacking in the distinctive Dutch flavors I remembered. Despite its reputation, the city was predominantly dominated by upscale French restaurants that neglected Holland’s rich culinary identity. However, a new wave of chefs like Joris Bijdendijk at Rijks is redefining Dutch cuisine. Located in the Rijksmuseum, Rijks sources its ingredients locally and offers dishes such as Dutch caviar paired with scallops and a beetroot mille-feuille inspired by Dutch master paintings.
This culinary renaissance reflects Amsterdam’s broader cultural revival. With renovated museums, the gentrification of the Red Light District, and the restoration of its iconic canals, the city is reclaiming its identity. Restaurants like Moon, atop the A’DAM Tower, offer local menus alongside panoramic views, while at De Kas, meals can be enjoyed amidst gardens where the ingredients are grown.
Beyond glamorous settings, smaller chef-driven kitchens like BAK and Stork focus on sustainability and seasonality, serving dishes like quail with saffron and Zeeland mussels. Meanwhile, Bas van Kranen at Flore showcases biodynamic ingredients in creations such as deep-sea shrimp consommé and a plate of 30 smoked and grilled vegetables.
Despite initial hesitation, I eventually tried Holland’s signature dish at a herring stand and enjoyed the sweet, salty taste of the North Sea.
Where to stay
Ambassade Hotel: A historic hotel overlooking the canals, featuring a library lounge filled with signed books from guest authors.
Canal House: A restored 17th-century canal house adorned with contemporary art and a large private garden.
The Dylan: A stylish retreat with a Michelin-starred restaurant and loft rooms overlooking the Keizersgracht canal.
Where to have lunch
Café Luxembourg: Popular café offering lobster croquettes and desserts at Spui Square.
Pompadour: Renowned pastry shop with seasonal treats and handcrafted chocolates.
Foodhallen: Amsterdam’s premier food court with a variety of international cuisines.
Café ‘T Smalle: Classic bar famous for its genever and bitterballen.
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