Imagine for a moment enjoying some of the most impressive wines in the world. Perhaps you’ll visit the historic caves of Champagne or explore underground vaults hidden beneath vine-covered hills in northern Italy. Maybe you’ll have a sommelier select a bottle for you in Cape Town or Sydney. Or you could sip on a glass of Château Margaux on the beach in the South Pacific. In 2022, good wines and the passion for them are no longer confined by borders, nowhere is this perhaps clearer than on Kokomo Private Island Fiji, where in recent years, a remarkable new wine collection featuring varieties from Europe, Australia, and California has quietly and steadily grown. In one of the most remote areas of the earth – Fiji is over 1,000 miles from New Zealand, its nearest neighbor – Kokomo opened in 2017 to immediate critical acclaim. However, like all other accommodations in the country, the ultra-luxurious resort had to close its doors due to COVID-19 and only welcomed guests back in December 2021.
During a phase of refreshment and reinvention, Kokomo took the time to quietly build its wine collection – currently nearly 3,000 bottles are housed in a cellar suitable for storage, entertainment, and private dinners. With matured vintages such as a 2004 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz from Australia, as well as crowd favorites like Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé (which some experts refer to as the catalyst for the rosé boom in the USA), Kokomo’s selection perfectly complements the understated yet opulent atmosphere of the space.
With western windows looking out onto the vast ocean, pre-dinner tastings are accompanied by the unmistakably brilliant colors of a South Pacific sunset. Afterwards, guests can stroll to the resort’s central, open terrace and linger over a glass. While the wines may have traveled a long way from home, as you breathe in the salty air and enjoy a panoramic view of the water, you’ll hardly find a more enjoyable way to savor them.”
Since its inception, the soul of Kokomo’s wine cellar has been Cellar Master Lily Puamau. Born in the capital city of Suva, Puamau originally came to the island to work in housekeeping – a position she left after just four months to join the food and beverage team. After discovering a deep fascination for wine, Puamau began the process of formalizing her education, earning her WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) Level 1 and 2 certifications and becoming the resort’s wine expert. Currently, she is studying to complete her WSET Level 3 and Level 4, and upon graduation, will become Fiji’s first fully certified sommelier.
Of course, talent cannot be taught – something Puamau possesses abundantly. These instincts are particularly helpful when it comes to food, as guests are served a daily changing menu of seafood from the only sustainable fishery program from pier to plate in the South Pacific and fresh fruits and vegetables from the island’s 5.5-hectare farm.
“We are equipped with information about the menu at every evening briefing,” says Puamau. “We go through every detail, every ingredient picked that day, every fish caught. I immediately look at the guests and think, for example, if they order lobster pasta and don’t like white wine, what lighter red wine would be best suited for them. It’s always a dialogue to find out what the guest likes and what fits into their budget.”
Although Kokomo offers many prestigious fine wines, including all five Bordeaux first growths, Puamau and the wine team have found that a bold, velvety red wine is not always the best choice, for example, to accompany lemon butter shrimp on a warm tropical evening. Therefore, since the reopening, the wine list has been expanded to include more options such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Noir, which complement the climate and cuisine of Fiji. Puamau’s absolute favorite champagne, Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, is also on the menu.
“We can tell everyone that we have Château Mouton Rothschild, but the reality is that people drink lighter wines,” says Kelley Schaefer, food and beverage manager at Kokomo. “Therefore, we have redesigned the program to be truly balanced and diverse. We have something for everyone. It could be the richest man in the world with a 10,000-bottle cellar at home, or someone who just wants a nice rosé at their picnic – we take care of them.”
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