Tim Blanks, Editor-in-Chief of BoF, and Imran Amed, Founder and Editor-in-Chief of BoF, reflect on the key moments of Fashion Week, starting with Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen and Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Background: This Fashion Week was marked by a forward-looking perspective. At several major brands, newly appointed creative directors ushered in a new era, including Seán McGirr at Alexander McQueen, Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino, and Chemena Kamali at Chloé. However, beyond the premieres of the creative directors, recurring motifs of technology and pared-down everyday wear reflected the current state of the world—and what is to come. “Early on, I noticed this rather peculiar touch of sci-fi,” says Tim Blanks, Editor-in-Chief of BoF. “There’s this emerging sense of apocalypse that lurks, and I think if you take a really long look at what has happened, you could feel that kind of anxiety,” says Tim Blanks, Editor-in-Chief of BoF.
After the conclusion of the shows for Autumn/Winter 2024, Blanks sits down with BoF Founder and Editor-in-Chief Imran Amed to discuss the highlights of Fashion Week.
Key Insights: At Louis Vuitton, the immersive set design by Philippe Parreno and the futuristic clothing by Nicolas Ghesquière left a lasting impression. “There was a lot of white and a lot of reflection, a lot of shiny stuff. They could have been on their way to a space station. And the sound was crazy. The sound makes you feel like you’re at home and you want to open a disco in your living room,” says Blanks. Jun Takahashi of Undercover presented a poem about a single mother raising her eight-year-old child, written by German filmmaker and playwright Wim Wenders. “Every detail is just so beautiful and impressive, and then Jun Takahashi showed the corresponding collection; everyday wear, but completely transformed by his insane genius,” recalls Blanks. At Alexander McQueen, Seán McGirr showcased his high-energy direction for the house following Sarah Burton’s departure. “I think as a creative director making his debut in a house, it’s much harder to create new energy than it is to design commercially viable clothing. And I think he succeeded; he has created a new energy around this brand,” says Amed. Following the sudden death of David Renne, Moschino welcomed new creative director Adrian Appiolaza, who for his first show, revisited the brand’s roots. “When you look at the iconography of Franco Moschino in detail, Adrian Appiolaza worked through the list and ticked every box. I think that was probably the happiest show of the whole season. … I think he celebrated the work of [Franco Moschino] in a way that I’m really looking forward to seeing what he does next,” says Blanks. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali radiated charisma on the runway. “You could see how she truly embodied the new Chloé and became its ambassador in a way that perhaps some of the younger creative directors never really could,” says Amed.
Discussion about this post